photo by Jacob Portillo
Onigiri, nori-wrapped rice balls stuffed with assorted ingredients, is coming to Mills Market
Japan's most popular on-the-go snack will have a dedicated stall inside the reimagined Mills Market (formerly Tien Hung Market) called UniGirl and will be spearheaded by William Shen, chef-partner of Mills Market noodle joint Zaru and the creative mastermind behind Baldwin Park multicourser Sorekara.
UniGirl, in fact, is named after Shen's pet shiba inu, Uni, whom he affectionately refers to as "Uni girl." It's hard to question the eatery's name when one of the cutest dog breeds on the planet serves as its brand mascot. "It’s her world," says Shen. "We’re just living in it.”
Guests can expect made-to-order onigiri — that is, nori-wrapped rice balls formed into a triangular shape and stuffed with assorted fillings like ume shiso (pickled plum), tuna mayo and mentaiko (spicy cod roe). Shen will also fashion some original creations, like the edamame goma with shiitake mushroom and sesame, and Uni’s Unigiri, an indulgence of Hokkaido sea urchin and marinated salmon roe. Snacks and beverages, inspired by konbini convenience stores in Japan where onigiri are a popular staple, will also be served.
In conjunction with UniGirl's opening, Bánh Mì Boy — a Tien Hung Market fixture — will be revamped to include dine-in seating, delivery options and new menu items like a "pho" French dip, Viet-Cajun oyster po'boys, Saigon beer-battered crispy fish with chili jam, and a breakfast bánh mì.
The two new concepts, as well as Zaru (which opened last September), are part of a makeover of the 10,000-square-foot food hub overseen by James Beard Award-nominated restaurateurs Johnny and Jimmy Tung. Phase 3 of the project will see a Japanese whisky bar occupy a space inside the market toward the end of the year, while Phase 4, slated for late 2025, will launch a chef incubation program, retail vendors and additional food vendors.
The brothers say they want to retain and preserve the charm of the original Tien Hung Market and not create another contemporary, soulless space for commerce. The design will take inspiration from the brothers' travels in Asia, specifically their discoveries of unique finds and experiences in alleyways.
"We want this to be a true market, and not a 'food hall,'" says Johnny Tung. "Mills Market is an important legacy project for me because of the [Tien Hung] market’s impact on Mills 50 these past 30 years. My wife grew up in this market, and my hope is that our kids will do the same."
Follow @UniGirlFl and @Banhmiboycafe for all the latest.
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