Food & Drink
Fresh-casual: Italio Modern Italian Kitchen and Olea Mezze Grill
Pickings are anything but slim at these eateries that allow for almost infinite customization
Published: June 11, 2014
ITALIO MODERN ITALIAN KITCHEN
276 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park | 407-960-1860 | italiokitchen.com | $
OLEA MEZZE GRILL
400 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland | 407-335-4958 | oleagrill.com | $
The steady diet of fast-casual restaurants we’ve been fed over the past decade has been the result of numerous factors – economics, for one, and a desire among an informed and health-conscious public for inexpensive, healthy and varied fare. Yes, the Chipotles, Paneras and Five Guys of the world have made a not-so-insignificant impact on our dining habits and patterns, all the while eating into the profits of full-service chains. Higher-quality ingredients, coupled with enhanced dining areas and infinite freedom of choice, pose an all-too-attractive option for the frugal-minded or picky diner, it seems – even more so when gimmicky ordering technologies are thrown in the mix.
Not surprisingly, then, the segment has become increasingly targeted by new franchise hopefuls in recent years, and many such establishments now shun the “fast casual” label in favor of “fresh casual” instead. Take Italio, for instance. The self-described “modern Italian kitchen” would seem out of place in even the most modern of Italian cities, but in Winter Park it offers the good folks three base entrée options along with a permutative windfall of toppings and sauces, à la the familiar Chipotle assembly line.
Well-placed signage (a necessity at any FCR) makes the ordering ritual quite easy, not that it’s rocket science – 1) pick a pasta bowl, salad bowl or piada; 2) pick a protein; 3) pick a sauce or dressing; 4) pick toppings. We sampled a bowl of whole grain spaghetti with Italian sausage ($6.98), topped with a spicy pomodoro-alfredo sauce. The pasta was neither al dente nor overcooked: “Just soft, like an American housewife would make,” mused my dining comrade. The sausage, pan-seared and slightly sweet, we liked; toppings of basil, onion, tomato, banana peppers and Parmesan were standard; roasted garlic was way overpowering. Had we known, we likely wouldn’t have added it (or as much of it) to our chicken fritte piada ($6.98). The wrap, like the chicken, was nicely crisped, and adding pasta, mozzarella, eggplant caponata and a chickpea mix to the filling gave it added substance. A suggestion when ordering the salad – make sure they add the meat after they add the lettuce. The cubes of grilled sirloin ($6.98) were at the bottom of our bowl, so by the time the lettuce, toppings and sauces were layered on top, the beef, and its flavor, was lost. From the list of sides, breaded cherry peppers were the lone surprise in a somewhat soggy calamari misto ($4.98).
Cannoli chips ($2.98), on the other hand, were surprisingly good and came served with a side of sweet cream and chocolate chips. Another positive: Seeing Italio’s workers sitting among customers and enjoying piadas and bowls of pasta after their shifts were done.
> Email Faiyaz Kara